On May 23rd, I arrived at the Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) in early evening, around 7:30PM. The flight with EVA Air from Taipei to Beiing was absolutely fantastic compared to the flight with Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong to Taipei. I’ve never had so much leg room on any flight, specially on a short 3-hour flight.
Walking into the Terminal 3 of the airport, a giant brightly-lit futuristic complex with no one around, was intimidating at first sight. This terminal is massive. According to Wikipedia, in itself it’s larger than all of London Heathrow Airport’s five terminals combined, with 17% to spare. It’s divided into two sections, and when you arrive you immediately have to get on the inter-terminal people mover (train) to reach the main section of the terminal where incoming luggage and customs are located.
Beijing Airport Terminal 3 – I was way too intimated to snap a picture at this point! (Image Source)
I followed the group of travelers from my plane along with a group of security/military outfit-clad youth who also entered the people mover. On the other side I picked up my luggage and headed towards the customs/border security, where my picture was taken and the guard kept staring intently back and forth at my face and my passport for several minutes. I felt like I was in China, at last.
I exchanged US dollars to Yuan at the airport, but was so eager to get to the hostel I’d reserved through hostelworld that I forgot to buy a SIM card for my cell phone. Bad move.
A lot of people opt to take taxis from the airport to the city. However, Beijing has an exceptional metro system that connects the airport directly to the inner-city metro. The Airport express express (¥25) took me straight from Terminal 3 to the Dongzhimen metro station. There I got on the metro (¥2) and headed to the Qianmen station. Unlike in Montreal, one thing to be careful in metro stations, both in Taiwan and China, is that the you need to save the entry ticket in order to be able to get out.
I arrived in central Beijing, at Qianmen station, around 10PM. I had a map in hand which outlined exactly which way to head. I needed to go into Qianmen Dajie/Street (前门大街). However, I quickly realized that the metro exit had led me to a square (Qianmen Square) from which there were streets eminating towards every direction.
I had no idea which way to go.
If you’re a solo traveler standing in center of a megalopolis at night, where you can’t speak the language and don’t know a single soul, those aren’t exactly words you want crossing your mind.
The map – It looks way simpler in retrospect
Pointing at my map and using broken signs, I tried to ask someone coming out of the metro if they could point me in the right direction. Before heading to China I was amply warned, by people of Chinese background, that people in Beijing would be cold and unhelpful. Proof in concept: the woman completely ignored me. Ouch. Cold-shouldered by my first Beijinger. I was not looking forward to the next two weeks.
I looked at the map really hard again and tried to position myself. As I’d learnt in my time in Taiwan, in Mandarin, ‘lu’ and ‘jie’ both mean ‘road’ or ‘street’. I looked across from the square, and there it was, ‘Qianmen’… perfect! I crossed the street and started heading into the street. I didn’t get very far before I was sufficiently creeped out though, telling myself this rather dark street dotted with construction sites couldn’t possibly be the same street I’d looked up on Google Streetview. Had it been day I’d know this was ‘Qianmen Donglu’ (the East road) and not Qianmen proper.
Walking anxiously back to the square, I found a policeman. There are tons of them there, actually. He couldn’t speaking English, but directed me towards a little kiosk on the other side of the road, beside the actual Qianmen Dajie. The giant gates and the shining lights tipped me off.
Dazhalan Xijie – Many of the historic stores in Qianmen Dajie and surrounding streets had interesting statues in front of them
I went into the “tourist” kiosk just as they were closing. I showed the two guide girls inside the map to my hostel, which was in a street coming off Qianmen Dajie. The girls didn’t speak English, and tried to point me towards the direction of the place. I nodded… hesitantly. They could tell I was exhausted and confused. One girl pointed at me to wait as she closed the kiosk and said goodbye to her friends.
I assumed she was going to come outside the kiosk and show me the direction and leave. But she came beside me and motioned for me to follow her. I followed her down Qianmen, then we headed into the narrow long Dazhalan Xijie/West Street (大栅栏). In middle of the way she actually grabbed one side of my suitcase handle to help me out and before long we were standing in front of my hostel, the 365 Inn. Crisis averted. Though, it wouldn’t be the last time I’d rely in the kindness (and warmth) of Beijingers.
365 Inn – Bar at night, restaurant by day
Marzieh Ghiasi